I stole that title from Stephen Clarke who wrote a book called Merde Actually and also the book,both recommended by Mary, called A Year in the Merde , which I am reading now and which is an hillarious account of a young fellow recruited from England to Paris to open a chain of tea shops. I think it is vaguely disguised truth. Well, as our PET would say " Life is unfolding as it should". Today is my chore day.. I finally need clean underware etc so having a "go" at the washing machine...one thing to try out a new washer but then another thing to follow directions all in French. But then there is the universal language of signs and that seems to be what I am following...it is going and has been for at least 40 minutes.. it will be exciting to iron tonite as I have not had many of those chores of running a household...my hands are so soft and not a cream on them. So a bit of things to say first...to Lynda and Bryan Bradbury...you have all the "y's" in your names like Ardythe..it must have been the rage for our parents...anyway fine that you passed on the blog to your friends who are coming. I spent last evening with your wonderful daughter and son-in-law..Laura and Franck and those two delicious granddaughters...Charlotte so cuddly and Camille such a pixie. I received lots of good-bye and goodnight kisses ..it was wonderful!! They wore their Barbie sneakers...not called sneakers but running shoes ..which you gave them..on our walk to the cave where the Resistance Fighters hid during the Second World War and where someone from a small Village denounced them and six were gunned down by the Nazi's. It was very moving and a beautiful tranquil place. There is a plaque with the names of the killed fighters and their ages ..of course they were 19-24 years ...it made me think of Afghanistan and also Iraq where young men are serving and dying. Here are also Roman Gallo ruins in the area and we visited those. They were destroyed in 259 AD...but now in the process of a slow restoration...there are so many of these historic sites throughout Europe it must be difficult to provide funds for them all. The Village where Franck and Laura live is charming and made me the most nostalgic for home since I arrived.Being alone and without a car I know I need to be close to stores etc...but I certainly miss the sunsets which those of you who have been to my home know are magnificent..and the rural quiet which is not part of city life. Here is a question?It is another wonderful day here high 28 and I have these fantastic windows open ..no screens and no flies coming in...I mean at home even with the windows shut and with screens, in the Spring the rooms can be full of houseflies and no seeums at night... and pretty soon those pesky blackflies? What is La difference? Every once and awhile a bee will explore the top area but I have yet to see one venture in.
After our walk yesterday afternoon I was served a delicious dinner of a quiche and salad..the quiche was a recipe of Franck's grandmother's..too many "s' there... we had wines from the area both from Domaines just a short distance away....a rose and a white...the white was a favorite as it had that flinty taste I am really enjoying in wine from Burgundy. I will need to win the lottery in order to continue to drink them in Nova Scotia. So just a very nice evening and I thank you Laura and Franck for inviting me to your home!!!
Going back to Monday I went over to a famous wine negocient's cave Champy et Cie to have a look at their wine selection... I was impressed and would like to go back for a degustation but they frown on singles....the life of a single...but they did have a pamphlet listing their wines and the prices per bottle...it will be intersting to collect all this info and see how much our Goverment raises the prices on these wines. Mary tell me the name of the Burgundian wine you so enjoy year etc and the price.
For my Pharmacist friends Rita and Jim.. I thought of you on Monday when I visited the Hospices de Beaune www.hospices-de-beaune.tm.fr built in the 1400's to look after the sick and the poor. You were there last year were you not Rita? It is the central tourist site in Beaune and I spent the afternoon taking a very leisurely tour. That is the positive of being single..."as you wish". Anyway it was a great spot for making up the drugs from herbs and plants and even some animals and for surgery..ugh..the instruments were pretty gross and remember they had not yet discovered how diseases spread and so still were not sterilizing instruments. My wash has finished and so I must go and look at my handiwork...but let me tell you about a small panic I had. I was getting short of money and set out for the bank machine I had used when I first arrived.... I could not find it...around and around I went ..up and down streets...there are lots of machines but I had to find one with the right logos to jive with my bank...10 minutes 20 minutes and Istill cannot find it...so I start walking home and lo and behold there it is ..just a few blocks from the apartment.. I have the place memorized now as iIwould not be surprised if it is the only one in Beaune compatible with RBC. Now for the dryer A Bientot Ardythe
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Sunday, April 22, 2007
Election Day In France
What a stretch of weather...if we ever had this much sun all in one swoop I think we Nova Scotians would think we had died and gone to heaven..another 26 degrees today ,Sunday, and more tomorrow. The French all got out to vote at least at Polling Station 007 in Beaune. I went down to have a look...it was at the Hotel de Ville about 3 blocks from my place...lots of people going in and out and I could see them carrying small cards which must have been thier identifiers. I timed them..gosh do you have nothing to do?..no says I...and they spent about 5 minutes inside. Outside where I was sitting I looked directly at a board..no actually it was 13 boards with #'s atop each board.The boards were quite large and 12 of them contained the campaign pictures of all the 12 candidates running for President. My understanding is that after todays vote the top 3 will run off in another election in a few weeks.Don't quote me on those numbers... I know for sure it is 12 candidates 2 are women...but maybe only 2 will run off not 3 and it might be next week . I have not yet turned on the TV to see if there is any coverage but judging by the quiet in the streets something is keeping the drivers busy.Just not the motor bike guy.
So, what have I been up to in this land of sun and wine. Yesterday morning was the Marche..the Grand Marche and I was down there bright and early. Everything is for sale...the big draw is the fresh farm products eggs ,cheeses..lots of cheeses, meats,some made in to pates etc,vegetables ,fruits,spice tables with dried fruits and olives of all types...flowers,there are many different producers and I imagine like anything after you have gone for awhile you pick out the producer whose product you like and you keep going back... I judged by the lineups..but for a novice it was confusing. Did I mention folks selling breads. Up another long street there were all the vendors of clothing, underwear,womens clothing which just looked terrific,sweaters,childrens clothing,stall after stall. people were selling CD's etc antiques,leather goods purses and belts and straw type purses...lots of those of all colours and sizes...then in a section where everyone needed to cross there were the rotisserie folks with their cooked chickens, rabbits,pidgeons, pork and ham and veal roasts and even some lamb and turkey legs.. I was going to buy a rabbit but I dithered too long and when I came back they were all gone. So I bought a turkey leg...dinde..and had it for supper last evening. I had it today again and will have it for 2 more days...that was one huge turkeyleg!!!. The French do not seem to serve turkey much especially in restaurants...this whole leg cost me 7E and I will get 4 meals out of it....and it was good..very good actually. I stayed at the market 2 hours leaving about 1130. Came home and had my lunch and a tiny siesta and then suddenly made up my mind to try the Patriarche Pere et Fils Cave and do their wine tasting.
This was a surprise to myself as I had not awoken in the morning thinking I would do this but I am on the search for the perfect white chardonnay and so far I am loving ones from Chassagne-Montrachet...I have tried various producers and years..so far my favorite has been a 2002 one by these Producers so visiting their cave was suddenly on my itinerary. The Cave is only a few blocks from here...you pay 10E and receive a self guided tour of the caves and then taste 13 wines...3 white and 10 red...none were the white C-M...can't be bothered to spell that out again.They also give you a "tastevin"...a small round silverish cup for tasting and you get to keep that. The caves are amazing .. 2 Acres of caves under the streets of Beaune filled with wine in bottles aging...4 million bottles more than you could ever imagine and stacked so perfectly..all plumbed ...ages 1996 to 2005..reds whites roses..seeing that was worth the price of admission and just wondering around down there...you could take all the time in the world. Then you came upon the Sommelier who was pouring a first taste of Aligote the poor sister of Chardonnay. He was not happy that I was from Canada...too difficult to send wines to Canada which is true..heavens that we would be allowed to come over here and find a wine we liked and have it shipped back home.. what would our liquor control boards do in guarding our taste and well being. I should not be so harsh as they are bringing in a lot of wines but I know that even if I find the most wonderful Chassagne-Montrachet I will never get it in Halifax. Oh well. Then on to the tasting.. I am not going to bore you with what we tasted.... it was all on a great card with a place for notes which I did...no one else did but that was b/c of my Sommelier course this year. There were actually 2 premiere cru's to taste in the reds. But here is what I thought....This little tastevin is not a great tasting tool...too shallow you cannot swirl and the cave is too dark..you cannot see the colour etc. The wines were too cold...the temperature in the cave was too cold and the only light was candles. I found the wines thin and watery..no long aftertaste and because of the tool I really was not getting any of the berry nose from the pinots. I would not have bought any even if I was from a country where I could ship back cases. Some of these bottles were 30E...so by the time we got them here they could easily be an 80$ bottle of wine...I think I need a class on Burgundy Pinot Noirs.... I know they are more elegant than Australians or Chileans but I want them to have a berry aroma and taste... this is where I missed being with someone to talk about it all...be glad when you get here guys as I will do it again... I did meet 2 youngish Americans who are working in Chalon on a Nuclear Power plant...they are from California. We had a nice chat about the French work ethic...not in a derogatory way as we decided we do not know how to have fun in North America...we judge ourselves by how late we burn the midnite oil and how long we do overtime on weekends etc. They told me that their boss was diving in the Red Sea that weekend and that this big project was not on his mind.
I had 2 people ask me directions also and both times I knew what they were saying and answered them very briefly but enough that they knew where they were headed...so I am looking French enough...by the way for you fashion hounds...what is in...linen everywhere shirts,jackets, pants skirts etc. capri pants are relly big...no shorts to be seen only on men...but these are fancy pants...all colours..skirts are really big...with lots of flounce. What I notice most is the accsessories....remember Robin Williams in Good Morning Viet Nam...long time ago..and his comment on fashion a few pearls in the jungle. Well women here know how to wear jewellery and scarves..well you knew that ..my jewellery is all so small they like big pieces anyway I am still trying to figure out the sizes and get a bit more nervy before I enter a dress store. Bonne Soiree the Sunday Ox.
So, what have I been up to in this land of sun and wine. Yesterday morning was the Marche..the Grand Marche and I was down there bright and early. Everything is for sale...the big draw is the fresh farm products eggs ,cheeses..lots of cheeses, meats,some made in to pates etc,vegetables ,fruits,spice tables with dried fruits and olives of all types...flowers,there are many different producers and I imagine like anything after you have gone for awhile you pick out the producer whose product you like and you keep going back... I judged by the lineups..but for a novice it was confusing. Did I mention folks selling breads. Up another long street there were all the vendors of clothing, underwear,womens clothing which just looked terrific,sweaters,childrens clothing,stall after stall. people were selling CD's etc antiques,leather goods purses and belts and straw type purses...lots of those of all colours and sizes...then in a section where everyone needed to cross there were the rotisserie folks with their cooked chickens, rabbits,pidgeons, pork and ham and veal roasts and even some lamb and turkey legs.. I was going to buy a rabbit but I dithered too long and when I came back they were all gone. So I bought a turkey leg...dinde..and had it for supper last evening. I had it today again and will have it for 2 more days...that was one huge turkeyleg!!!. The French do not seem to serve turkey much especially in restaurants...this whole leg cost me 7E and I will get 4 meals out of it....and it was good..very good actually. I stayed at the market 2 hours leaving about 1130. Came home and had my lunch and a tiny siesta and then suddenly made up my mind to try the Patriarche Pere et Fils Cave and do their wine tasting.
This was a surprise to myself as I had not awoken in the morning thinking I would do this but I am on the search for the perfect white chardonnay and so far I am loving ones from Chassagne-Montrachet...I have tried various producers and years..so far my favorite has been a 2002 one by these Producers so visiting their cave was suddenly on my itinerary. The Cave is only a few blocks from here...you pay 10E and receive a self guided tour of the caves and then taste 13 wines...3 white and 10 red...none were the white C-M...can't be bothered to spell that out again.They also give you a "tastevin"...a small round silverish cup for tasting and you get to keep that. The caves are amazing .. 2 Acres of caves under the streets of Beaune filled with wine in bottles aging...4 million bottles more than you could ever imagine and stacked so perfectly..all plumbed ...ages 1996 to 2005..reds whites roses..seeing that was worth the price of admission and just wondering around down there...you could take all the time in the world. Then you came upon the Sommelier who was pouring a first taste of Aligote the poor sister of Chardonnay. He was not happy that I was from Canada...too difficult to send wines to Canada which is true..heavens that we would be allowed to come over here and find a wine we liked and have it shipped back home.. what would our liquor control boards do in guarding our taste and well being. I should not be so harsh as they are bringing in a lot of wines but I know that even if I find the most wonderful Chassagne-Montrachet I will never get it in Halifax. Oh well. Then on to the tasting.. I am not going to bore you with what we tasted.... it was all on a great card with a place for notes which I did...no one else did but that was b/c of my Sommelier course this year. There were actually 2 premiere cru's to taste in the reds. But here is what I thought....This little tastevin is not a great tasting tool...too shallow you cannot swirl and the cave is too dark..you cannot see the colour etc. The wines were too cold...the temperature in the cave was too cold and the only light was candles. I found the wines thin and watery..no long aftertaste and because of the tool I really was not getting any of the berry nose from the pinots. I would not have bought any even if I was from a country where I could ship back cases. Some of these bottles were 30E...so by the time we got them here they could easily be an 80$ bottle of wine...I think I need a class on Burgundy Pinot Noirs.... I know they are more elegant than Australians or Chileans but I want them to have a berry aroma and taste... this is where I missed being with someone to talk about it all...be glad when you get here guys as I will do it again... I did meet 2 youngish Americans who are working in Chalon on a Nuclear Power plant...they are from California. We had a nice chat about the French work ethic...not in a derogatory way as we decided we do not know how to have fun in North America...we judge ourselves by how late we burn the midnite oil and how long we do overtime on weekends etc. They told me that their boss was diving in the Red Sea that weekend and that this big project was not on his mind.
I had 2 people ask me directions also and both times I knew what they were saying and answered them very briefly but enough that they knew where they were headed...so I am looking French enough...by the way for you fashion hounds...what is in...linen everywhere shirts,jackets, pants skirts etc. capri pants are relly big...no shorts to be seen only on men...but these are fancy pants...all colours..skirts are really big...with lots of flounce. What I notice most is the accsessories....remember Robin Williams in Good Morning Viet Nam...long time ago..and his comment on fashion a few pearls in the jungle. Well women here know how to wear jewellery and scarves..well you knew that ..my jewellery is all so small they like big pieces anyway I am still trying to figure out the sizes and get a bit more nervy before I enter a dress store. Bonne Soiree the Sunday Ox.
Friday, April 20, 2007
Getting Back to Normal in Beaune
I have seen nothing but blue skies in Beaune so far...a whole week with this amazing weather. Yesterday I walked the 3 plus km to Pommard..a wine growing village...my journey took me all through the vineyards and it was wonderful..just a few cyclists and hikers like myself...many workers among the vines..clipping at the vines, scarifying the soil around the root and maybe just making sure the vine was growing along the first trellis...each vine seems to have approximately 6-7 smaller vines coming off of it all with leaves....it will be fun to see how much they all grow in the 8 weeks I am here. It was an unplanned walk.. I was actually just checking out a small prak and then I could see the vineyards in the distance and away I went... badly planned as I had no water, no hat but I did have the right shoes and my walking stick... I take that most times as the streets here are all cobbled and I have fallen in some towns like Arles and given myself nasty injuries. Anyway once I got close I had to go further and then I said just to that church spire which was Pommard...everyone was indoors as it was about 1 o'clock...the French lunch break.. I found a small grocery store open and bought some water and iced tea...all the iced tea seems to be peach flavored..then a seat by the Church where I was joined by 2 nuns on a journey and having their lunch...they were dressed in their habits of grey...something we do not see much on the North American side anymore....and then I walked back to Beaune spending time in the Park watching families and ducks in the small lake..they had lovely swans and even some Canada geese. A walk through town had me looking for a chapeaux to wear on my next hike...asking at a dress shop in my best French the owner pointed to a store a few doors down with some hats in the window...I squeezed throught the door and there was a very jumble store of hats...all over the place and an old man and woman...she looked after me and I could inderstand enough that she was asking me if I wanted a summer hat ...l'ete... I said oui and she took me to a pile of cotton hats ..just what I wanted...different colours.. I chose white and for 12 e the hat was mine.... I wore it today on my next walk which was up the Beaune Mountain.... the vineyards grow all the way up the side of the mountain...well not like Everest more like Citadel Hill...well a bit higher... I was the only walker around this morning but the weather is to be warmer over the weekend ...can you believe that? and I wanted to get my walk in today...did not get all my steps done so I will need to go out after.. I thought I would go and sit in the square for a bit and read....and visit the Chocolatier on my way home a little treat for Friday nite to celebrate being here a week. Elizabeth I did not hear you mention France on the radio this AM as I was out for my walk..thank you though!!! So how am I feeling much better thank you..not 100% yet but out and about as you can read. Before I sign off let me tell you about the flora this time of year...the daffodils are spent and the tulips are close. The lilacs and wisteria are wafting their aromas everywhere as they are in full bloom. The roses are climbing the houses and are full of bloom...the flower boxes are full of pansies and geraniums and decorate most houses and squares... on my walk this AM some houses were planting their vegetable gardens and I could see potatoes way up. So it is very advanced here weather-wise and I am thinking a very good alternative to Florida or Arizona or even Spain...I guess the next question would be how is my forced isolation going? I am still feeling very chipper..there is so much to do here that I plan little excursions and goals for each day keep my eyes and ears open as there is so much going on around me and enjoy myself that way. So far I am not missing talking with people..although I would like to understand the French election better...it is happening on Sunday. Laura who owns my apartment and has a blogsite has all the folks running listed on her site with a little comment about each...from her site I take it there is no overwhlming candidate and some she very much does not want to get in...racist, anti-immigration, pro family..we know what that means..le Pin... anyway Sunday I am going to mass and then to the Maire where the voting takes place just to linger about... by the way there are hardly any posters up not like we do with posters everywhere..must be some by-laws regarding that.Tomorrow is the big market and that is supposed to be great.... A bientot the Ox who is looking for chocolate... thanks for the e-mails everyone keep them coming!!!how about some comments.
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
In Beaune with A Cold
Well here I am again... am I doing anything but write on the blog ??? well yes I am but I did get sick and I am working at getting better. Not sure what happened but picked up a sore throat and stuffed nose and just feeling blah so yesterday I babied myself all day....read and even watched a movie. My body is still not adjusting as it should I feel and I am awake at night very late. I am not nervous as the apt is very secure so I am feeling that it is body adjustment...takes a little longer as you age. However, today Wednesday I was up and out early to go to the petit marche the little market....the big market being Saturday...and yes it was little and I was there before some had set up...but I did buy lettuce ..wonderful ..and will have it for supper tonite and cheese....I believe it is called Montballiard...but oh it is not on the label.....it is soft with a blue streak of bacteria through the middle and it is divine... I am having it with a glass of 2004 Chardonnay from a Nuits Saint Georges and it is also wonderful... I cannot tell you about the aromas as my cold is distorting them totally but the mouth taste is lovely and balanced, some fruit and violets no oaking discernible to me... clean and crisp..it was 10e for the bottle... whites I can buy by the bottle as they will last better..the reds I am more leary of but it is hard to find a half bottle...after the market I found this wonderful "chacuterie" and I am sorry to say I did not get the name of it...bit I will the next time as I am now eating their "campagne de pate" country pate and it is subtle and chewey and one of the best I have eaten so I will definately go back....obviously the cold has not effected my appetite. We also have a neighbourhood Patisserie and that is where my bread is from. The owner noticed my CBC knapsack today Elizabeth and her daughter went to Montreal U as an exchange student in Journalism. She speaks only French to me as I have asked her to do that. She seemd a little hesitant re Nouvelle Ecosse but I bet she will find out she seems pretty with it. After all my shopping for food for the next few days and getting money which worked beautifully... I went to the Pharmacy to get something for my cold.Now these Pharmacies are everywhere and although I have seen them I have not really gone in as I have not felt sick here before. So you know how many cold medications we would have in a Shoppers.....Tylenol, Robitussin, Contac C.etc etc.... there was none of that and the gentleman asked me what my problem was...asked a few questions and then proceeded to recommend a totally natural product called Propolis Vitamin C...made in Germany I believe... a loszenge for my throat and a spray for I am not sure .. I am now wondering if I should have sprayed it in my nostrils... I better read that as I sprayed it in my throat... anyway it has helped tremendously and I felt good enough after my late breakfast/lunch to walk the Ramparts and find the cave that the Drouhin's own.....there are according to my sources a number of very good negocients for wine....and I have found most of their places except for Drouhin...however here is the funny thing...last night I was reading the book Wine and War which I told you about..and they were talking about Joseph Drouhin and how he escaped the Nazis by leaving his house from his underground caves in 1942...he lived at #7 Rue L'Enfer and escaped through the cave tunnels to Rue Paradis...well I knew where Rue Paradis was as I ate at a restaurant on Saturday night there...off I went and there it was ..the street and there was the name Joseph Drouhin...to visit their caves go round the corner...so I could see where they must have lived during the 2nd World War and where the Nazi's came to the door and where his wife called down from their bedroom window that he was not there...gone to Paris she said.... anyway I know where they all are now Jadot, Bouchard Pere, Drouhin, Champy et Cie....well I have lied as I have yet to find the giant Louis Latour but I will and I am sure he is close. The main point here is that life has little coincidences clues out there for you. Because I was reading that book then I saw where the Nazi's came as the book gave the address...hope this is not boring you..... before I left we bought a book by Remington Norman...the Great Domaines of Burgundy and these are the ones he talks about so I am trying to find them all before Bruce arrives... negocients... like these guys do everything...they have their own vineyards and bottle under their own name but they also buy other folks grapes and bottle under their name...you can tell which is which by checking out the label closely...then they buy other folks wine and sell it for them under their great umbrella...they are like the exporter... some have only gotten better in the last few years like Bouchard Pere...they were selling garbage wine for very expensive prices...however.with the advent of California and Australian wines the new world and all their "hype" as well as the Parker phenomena some of these great producers realized thay had to 'up" the quality of their wine and get back to good stuff...we are doing a tour of Bouchard Pere on May 15th. Anyway in all those meanderings about the town I found also a little wine bar that gives short courses on tasting wine which I really liked the look of...that is what I need...18e ..6 wines they seem to limit the class to 2 so hope someone will come along.... anyay it was a lovely afternoon and I am home now and enjoying the wine and cheese and pate.... www.sensation-vin.com in case you want to check it out...enough for tonight sweet dreams... I hope I have some The stuffed up Ox
Monday, April 16, 2007
Up to date in Beaune
I was not going to write another message but it was early and I did the dishes etc and decided that I would bring you up to date...from the sounds of things Canada is getting tons of weather and lots of you are without power or probably soon will be...so I will catch up on what has happened and then each day or so can add a bit rather than keep falling behind.
So, I entered the Apartment with trepidation...pictures on the website can be made to look super but this place is just great!!! lots of light and those big long perfect windows with the several layers of shutters which I am learning to open and close....no screens also.. I like to keep mine open at night ..just gives me a sense of the outdoors. The colours in the apartment are very restful pale mauves and periwinkle blues, lovely old hardwood floors,beautifully decorated tasteful, and great appliances and just perfect for a lady staying for 8 weeks...and very central to the town of Beaune and all the wine negocients...anyone into wine..well Bouchard Pere is just up the street, next door is Champy et Cie and around the corner is Louis Jadot..these are big guys in the making buying and selling of the Burgundy wines.. Off I went to find the grocery store with my wheel basket... I love the French b/c they have banned plastic bags at the Supermarkets and you know we could do that so write people.. I already wrote Mayor Kelly and you know what he actually replied to me a very nice letter. I also wrote Len Goucher our Minister of Tourism about the cover of the 2007 Doers and Dreamers which shows a young woman sprawled on the deck of the ?Bluenose with a grey haired sugar daddy. The young woman was in a backless dress and most inappropriately positioned. I rec'd back a terrible standard reply...that warm days sailing in NS was what they were trying to sell..well how many of those do we have? but more importantly we have lost some very good women this year Doris Anderson and now June Caldwell who would have agreed with me with regards to that photo. No one I know young included would have gone on the Bluenose dressed like that! And I diverse
So off to the Casino they are called and here I did get lost! But a mid aged couple helped me out found out I was from Canada wanted to know if I would like to come for dinner and taste some wine. Laura tells me the French are crazy for Canada...the wilderness and animals and they all want to come..so is the Tourist Department advertising over here? I have not seen a thing.
So I love these grocery stores and I must be very careful not to over buy...there is so much cheese and beautiful foods even for a grocery store. So I bought my favorite chicken.. free range and still with the feet on, wonderful strawberries.. I will take pictures at the market on Wednesday... and not to bore you with more food..but then marched right home and went out for dinner with a couple Ed and Karren McCabe from Boston who were in the area and had made plans before I came over to "hook up" as the young would say...so from Versaille to Beaune all in a day and then out for dinner to a wonderful little restaurant called le P'tite Paradis...the food was great but we had a wonderful bottle of 2004 Chassagne-Montrachet, Premiere Crus Les Macherelles...a chardonnay with lots of sous bois ..probably the best Chardonnay I have ever drunk. I walked home alone without fear... lots of folks out on the streets and fell asleep after talking with Bruce... a great first day...but I know they cannot all be like that. Ed and Karren invited me to do the wine route with them Sunday in thier new car they bought in Germany...guess which make? MB...but I declined...you know ,besides being tired I was eager to start my journey here and being with safe folkswas prolonging the dependence. So I puttered in the apartment getting myself all set up and cooked a chicken which will last a few more day at least and reading. Laura, the owner, has a ton of books and videos and along with the computer I can listen to CBC, check in on the Raptors TV alas for only scores and be very well aware of what is going on in the world...ie massacres, kidnappings etc. Before supper I walked around the town to get my barings abit and just enjoy the sunny clime...what a brilliant day it was and Monday was to be the same.
Up early todayMonday and super weather again.... went for an early walk then Laura and Franck arrived to hook me up to the Internet wireless... I will never be able to go back to the farm...I have seen Paris. Laura and Franck are just delightful...everything you would want and more in folks you are renting a place from. Laura is from Victoria and Franck from Dijon..they met when they were young and Laura on an exchage program in Beaune...now they call both places home..Franck and their 2 girls have dual citizenship..and Laura I forgot to ask if you had French citizenship...Laura will be reading my blog....thye love both their families and countries so they move back and forth very easily...both are perfectly bilingual...is that not wonderful!!They took me out to lunch and I hate to admit it but they spoke English to me the whole time and I will probably come home without learning any French... I am lazy!!!. The restaurant Rita is just a few doors from the mustard factory you were telling me about so I will get there at some point. It was one of these places we are all searching for...great food,not in the Michelin guide and all the everyday guys are there for lunch...called Le Cafe de France...what else...Laura and Franck go there often and knew to go right thru the restaurant to the back outside under a pergola where we had a wonderful salad with lardons and then beef Bourgignonge...yikes I had better learn to spell that..it gets worst every time I try it.....but you get what I mean. Then I came home had a bit of a snooze and up and out on errands for 3 hours. I wanted to find theL'Ecole des vins de Bourgogne and see what classes they have and sign up for some..the best ones are in French and Annabelle who spoke great English to me the French linguist failure will take a full day course in French ..it is a 6 wine tasting morning then a 4 wine tasting lunch and then we head to Chateau du Close de Vougeot...I think you were there Rita ....to study the terroir...no wines there It is in the Cotes de Nuits and they have a small bus that takes you there. Annabelle assured me there was NO test...all for fun and a certificate!...the school is only about 10 minutes walking from the Apatment..as are most things...so then I walked all through town.. I am getting very familaiar now and home about 7 PM and blogging after a very small supper...and now you are very caught up and I am going to bed. Laura has given me a book to read which is looking very interesting...Wine and War...The French,The Nazi's and France's Greatest Treasure by Don and Petie Kladstrup, a Coronet Book if you are interestd in finding it . A Bientot... The Ox
So, I entered the Apartment with trepidation...pictures on the website can be made to look super but this place is just great!!! lots of light and those big long perfect windows with the several layers of shutters which I am learning to open and close....no screens also.. I like to keep mine open at night ..just gives me a sense of the outdoors. The colours in the apartment are very restful pale mauves and periwinkle blues, lovely old hardwood floors,beautifully decorated tasteful, and great appliances and just perfect for a lady staying for 8 weeks...and very central to the town of Beaune and all the wine negocients...anyone into wine..well Bouchard Pere is just up the street, next door is Champy et Cie and around the corner is Louis Jadot..these are big guys in the making buying and selling of the Burgundy wines.. Off I went to find the grocery store with my wheel basket... I love the French b/c they have banned plastic bags at the Supermarkets and you know we could do that so write people.. I already wrote Mayor Kelly and you know what he actually replied to me a very nice letter. I also wrote Len Goucher our Minister of Tourism about the cover of the 2007 Doers and Dreamers which shows a young woman sprawled on the deck of the ?Bluenose with a grey haired sugar daddy. The young woman was in a backless dress and most inappropriately positioned. I rec'd back a terrible standard reply...that warm days sailing in NS was what they were trying to sell..well how many of those do we have? but more importantly we have lost some very good women this year Doris Anderson and now June Caldwell who would have agreed with me with regards to that photo. No one I know young included would have gone on the Bluenose dressed like that! And I diverse
So off to the Casino they are called and here I did get lost! But a mid aged couple helped me out found out I was from Canada wanted to know if I would like to come for dinner and taste some wine. Laura tells me the French are crazy for Canada...the wilderness and animals and they all want to come..so is the Tourist Department advertising over here? I have not seen a thing.
So I love these grocery stores and I must be very careful not to over buy...there is so much cheese and beautiful foods even for a grocery store. So I bought my favorite chicken.. free range and still with the feet on, wonderful strawberries.. I will take pictures at the market on Wednesday... and not to bore you with more food..but then marched right home and went out for dinner with a couple Ed and Karren McCabe from Boston who were in the area and had made plans before I came over to "hook up" as the young would say...so from Versaille to Beaune all in a day and then out for dinner to a wonderful little restaurant called le P'tite Paradis...the food was great but we had a wonderful bottle of 2004 Chassagne-Montrachet, Premiere Crus Les Macherelles...a chardonnay with lots of sous bois ..probably the best Chardonnay I have ever drunk. I walked home alone without fear... lots of folks out on the streets and fell asleep after talking with Bruce... a great first day...but I know they cannot all be like that. Ed and Karren invited me to do the wine route with them Sunday in thier new car they bought in Germany...guess which make? MB...but I declined...you know ,besides being tired I was eager to start my journey here and being with safe folkswas prolonging the dependence. So I puttered in the apartment getting myself all set up and cooked a chicken which will last a few more day at least and reading. Laura, the owner, has a ton of books and videos and along with the computer I can listen to CBC, check in on the Raptors TV alas for only scores and be very well aware of what is going on in the world...ie massacres, kidnappings etc. Before supper I walked around the town to get my barings abit and just enjoy the sunny clime...what a brilliant day it was and Monday was to be the same.
Up early todayMonday and super weather again.... went for an early walk then Laura and Franck arrived to hook me up to the Internet wireless... I will never be able to go back to the farm...I have seen Paris. Laura and Franck are just delightful...everything you would want and more in folks you are renting a place from. Laura is from Victoria and Franck from Dijon..they met when they were young and Laura on an exchage program in Beaune...now they call both places home..Franck and their 2 girls have dual citizenship..and Laura I forgot to ask if you had French citizenship...Laura will be reading my blog....thye love both their families and countries so they move back and forth very easily...both are perfectly bilingual...is that not wonderful!!They took me out to lunch and I hate to admit it but they spoke English to me the whole time and I will probably come home without learning any French... I am lazy!!!. The restaurant Rita is just a few doors from the mustard factory you were telling me about so I will get there at some point. It was one of these places we are all searching for...great food,not in the Michelin guide and all the everyday guys are there for lunch...called Le Cafe de France...what else...Laura and Franck go there often and knew to go right thru the restaurant to the back outside under a pergola where we had a wonderful salad with lardons and then beef Bourgignonge...yikes I had better learn to spell that..it gets worst every time I try it.....but you get what I mean. Then I came home had a bit of a snooze and up and out on errands for 3 hours. I wanted to find theL'Ecole des vins de Bourgogne and see what classes they have and sign up for some..the best ones are in French and Annabelle who spoke great English to me the French linguist failure will take a full day course in French ..it is a 6 wine tasting morning then a 4 wine tasting lunch and then we head to Chateau du Close de Vougeot...I think you were there Rita ....to study the terroir...no wines there It is in the Cotes de Nuits and they have a small bus that takes you there. Annabelle assured me there was NO test...all for fun and a certificate!...the school is only about 10 minutes walking from the Apatment..as are most things...so then I walked all through town.. I am getting very familaiar now and home about 7 PM and blogging after a very small supper...and now you are very caught up and I am going to bed. Laura has given me a book to read which is looking very interesting...Wine and War...The French,The Nazi's and France's Greatest Treasure by Don and Petie Kladstrup, a Coronet Book if you are interestd in finding it . A Bientot... The Ox
And Beaune It Is
Well here I am in my new 'home" for the next 2 months and is not the weather beautiful still. It must have been 30 degrees celsius today at noon and everyone is out and eating in the sidwalk cafe's..way warmer, my sons, than when we were in Provence a few years ago...I think this is exceptional though and my landlords are warning me that wonderful weather like this brings horrendous thunderstorms and how to unplug everything etc So let me tell you this.. I am sitting at my computer drinking from a demi bottle of 2000 Savigny-les Beaune Les
Lavieres.. a premiere cru of the Bouchard Pere & Fils negocients of Beaune. It has this wonderful 'sous bois' or muskiness that I love in a pinot noir and is the mark for me now of my favorite wine...I just read that and please be clear I am not drinking from the bottle but a wine glass...that was sort of what it sounded like.
But before I get you to Beaune let me go back to Versaille and tell a bit of the experience there... this is a bit of a memory blog for me so bear with me. Versaille is incredible...so much opulence and art and grounds that are jewels to be in....although I had been there before with you Bruce at the time we had not been able to go to Marie Antionette's little Trianon and her little village so that was important for me to see. I spent the morning in the Grand Palace and then the afternoon after a nice lunch on the grounds over at Petit Trianon and the Farm and Village. Considering all the rumours re Marie's opulence..her Petit Trianon was very bare and ordinary..she was definately getting away from it all...but her theatre where she put herself in plays was just wonderful and is still used ...it seats about 300 people..I was the only person there having a look at it that afternoon at least at that time....let me stop to say that my church bells are ringing out the 8 in the evening time... I love hearing them. Anyway the Village surrounds a very nice little lake...a mill and about 6-7 other little houses...none of which you can tour as they are crumbling and in need of restoration. I am sure though that to keep up the Palace takes enough money that you cannot fault the French. However, this is a wonderful National historic site and people flock there from all over the world .
So, in the last e-mail I told you I was all prepared for my trip on Saturday to Beaune except when I arrived at the train station it was closed for that day for repairs a point my clerk had failed to tell me...what was I to do? This kind of situation puts stress on the aging heart...however, France has put me in the care of a number of aging supermen who have rescued me and my white hair. So I was directed to the bus stop...then when the bus driver could not speak English a dashing 75 year old took me under his wing to Paris. However, once on the subway I could settle down and see where I was going and left him at a stop with a better transfer to la Gare du Lyon where I was going to connect to the high speed train..he is still probably wondering if I made it but I did. Thank heavens I am always several hours early and had lots of time to flounder. I had taken the liberty of travelling first class to Beaune...not much more than 2nd class but well worth it... the trip was a little more than 2 hours but I needed to change trains in Dijon...well, there was no elevator in Dijon and I was needing to drag that suitcase up and down stairs...but always there was a male to rescue me... the gallant French..and they never complained of the heaviness...even when I arrived in Beaune I was once again faced with stairs and there was my male.... now don't worry folks I know it is my age and not my beauty...
And on to my new home on Rousseau Deslandes the oldest street in Beaune I was met by a wonderful young man named Julian who lives above me and is the head of the Council of people who own the apartments...that was serendipitous he just happened to be coming in when I was and once again helped me with my suitcase and even invited me for tea...he was a cutey and married with a 1 month old baby...but loves to meet the folks in the rental apartment so my landlord Laura tells me.. I refused b/c I was heading for the supermarket to stock up for a few days. So this is the end for now.. I will write again but you only have so much time to read and I have been writing for ages. Best wishes to you all... Lizziebugs received your comment and Sandra also... it makes me feel very good to hear from you and yes give Bruce a call now and then...Au revoir... the Burgundy Ox...who is now in Burgundy
Lavieres.. a premiere cru of the Bouchard Pere & Fils negocients of Beaune. It has this wonderful 'sous bois' or muskiness that I love in a pinot noir and is the mark for me now of my favorite wine...I just read that and please be clear I am not drinking from the bottle but a wine glass...that was sort of what it sounded like.
But before I get you to Beaune let me go back to Versaille and tell a bit of the experience there... this is a bit of a memory blog for me so bear with me. Versaille is incredible...so much opulence and art and grounds that are jewels to be in....although I had been there before with you Bruce at the time we had not been able to go to Marie Antionette's little Trianon and her little village so that was important for me to see. I spent the morning in the Grand Palace and then the afternoon after a nice lunch on the grounds over at Petit Trianon and the Farm and Village. Considering all the rumours re Marie's opulence..her Petit Trianon was very bare and ordinary..she was definately getting away from it all...but her theatre where she put herself in plays was just wonderful and is still used ...it seats about 300 people..I was the only person there having a look at it that afternoon at least at that time....let me stop to say that my church bells are ringing out the 8 in the evening time... I love hearing them. Anyway the Village surrounds a very nice little lake...a mill and about 6-7 other little houses...none of which you can tour as they are crumbling and in need of restoration. I am sure though that to keep up the Palace takes enough money that you cannot fault the French. However, this is a wonderful National historic site and people flock there from all over the world .
So, in the last e-mail I told you I was all prepared for my trip on Saturday to Beaune except when I arrived at the train station it was closed for that day for repairs a point my clerk had failed to tell me...what was I to do? This kind of situation puts stress on the aging heart...however, France has put me in the care of a number of aging supermen who have rescued me and my white hair. So I was directed to the bus stop...then when the bus driver could not speak English a dashing 75 year old took me under his wing to Paris. However, once on the subway I could settle down and see where I was going and left him at a stop with a better transfer to la Gare du Lyon where I was going to connect to the high speed train..he is still probably wondering if I made it but I did. Thank heavens I am always several hours early and had lots of time to flounder. I had taken the liberty of travelling first class to Beaune...not much more than 2nd class but well worth it... the trip was a little more than 2 hours but I needed to change trains in Dijon...well, there was no elevator in Dijon and I was needing to drag that suitcase up and down stairs...but always there was a male to rescue me... the gallant French..and they never complained of the heaviness...even when I arrived in Beaune I was once again faced with stairs and there was my male.... now don't worry folks I know it is my age and not my beauty...
And on to my new home on Rousseau Deslandes the oldest street in Beaune I was met by a wonderful young man named Julian who lives above me and is the head of the Council of people who own the apartments...that was serendipitous he just happened to be coming in when I was and once again helped me with my suitcase and even invited me for tea...he was a cutey and married with a 1 month old baby...but loves to meet the folks in the rental apartment so my landlord Laura tells me.. I refused b/c I was heading for the supermarket to stock up for a few days. So this is the end for now.. I will write again but you only have so much time to read and I have been writing for ages. Best wishes to you all... Lizziebugs received your comment and Sandra also... it makes me feel very good to hear from you and yes give Bruce a call now and then...Au revoir... the Burgundy Ox...who is now in Burgundy
Friday, April 13, 2007
Arrived In Versaille
Well here I am doing what I have planned for so many months. Let me say that there was little emotion in the planning..all in the event as I said good-bye to everyone and especially Bruce..a few tears there.But let me say that as hard as it is to start now that I am here it is "not so bad''''., I have so much time to work on this as I just bought 1 hour and I wasted time trying to find the blog...so I will start. The cattle trip over courtesy of Air Canada....7 hours of misery..jammed in, terrible food and a crying baby in the seat in front of me...however having read the Nine Lives of Charlotte Taylor..my trip across the Atlantic was not as bad as hers. The weather has been fantastic...even for France this time of year high 20's and I have eaten all my meals outside except for tonite when I bought a beer and cheese etc and ate in my room...Bruce you will be happy. I could no longer resist the beautiful fromagerie just up the street. Thursday...remember I lost about 5 hours and a sleepless nite...I spent getting ready for today at Versaille..finding my way out of the Charles de gaulle airport onto the TGV and to Versaille...folks were kind and helped with my luggage as I still cannoy travel lite. Jamie that widescreened computer was heavy on my back..I saw men with baby ones which would have been way lighter. Once in Versaille I found my way to my hotel a little boutique place called le RESIDENCE DU BARRY..one of the mistresses of one of the Louis..even though I spent the day visiting their home I cannot straighten them out.As I write the sounds are drifting up from the restaurant across the street as I have the window open Bruce and all nite too. Got all my tickets for the Palace today yesterday also got organized for my trip to Beaune..Saturday. The highspeed train is fast but not cheap.But nothing is really as the Euro is like a dollar yet costs us more. No trouble getting my money Elaine or using my Visa...for those who do not know Elaine she is my banker and organized it so I would have no trouble money-wise while here. I slept wonderfully lasy nite and up this AM and at the Palace by 9 AM. I love Versaille..it is huge and requires at least a day. I will talk more about it the next time as I am going to stop now and e-mail some. Love to you all and thank you for all the support...and thank you for calling before I left and e-mailing. Let me end by saying this... Bruce those were NOT grape vines with blossoms ..too big must have been apple trees or soemthing the vines have hardly any leaves yet let alone blossoms. The weather tonite is gorgeous and the birds are singing and the flowers are in bloom like lilacs and cherry blossoms. Til Beaune
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