The Rhone River

After leaving Burgundy we again took the A series highway south toward Lyon with the intention of getting off before Lyon and trying out some less busy back roads... We were headed to a town in the Northern Rhone wine area called Tournon.Somehow between Monsieur Michelin and Sally our GPS...we ended back on the main road and went right through Lyon...wow..tunnels and all and the Rhone flowed sometimes on our left and other times on our right. What a huge city Lyon is..thank heavens this was about 3PM... And not a big traffic hour.We emerged out the other side safely and continued on a slower D road south.The vines quickly came into sight..clinging to terraces on the side of very very steep hills...lots of rock.. And rock walls holding little ledges of soil in place. No tractors like the Star War contraptions you see in Burgundy on these hills...cultivation and picking must all be done by hand.I think what I noticed the most was the lack of beauty compared say to Burgundy, Champagne and Bordeaux.The towns were between the river and the steep hillside.. Actually quite a narrow space.The vineyards looked spectacular but there were no vistas like in the other wine areas or those rolling hills that gave a bowl shape to the vineyards. For lunch we had had a Demi bottle of a 2009 Jaboulet from St Joseph...I really enjoyed this red...it had a great nose and certainly one could smell and taste the meatiness which you are supposed to get in Northern Rhone wines...plus the peppery finish.Lots of black fruit. Our little hotel in Tournon was clean but small... And given that the town was quite bleak we stayed in and read..and with dinner had a very nice Demi bottle of 2010 Crozes Hermitage"Les Jalets" by Jaboulet again...this is a well respected producer of Northern Rhones and even in our little hotel he was proudly displayed. Considering how much I like white wine..crisps with little oak I am surprised at how much I am enjoying these Northern Rhone reds...the Syrah grape seems to be crisper? More acidic then in warmer climates like the US and Australia...maybe even further south in the Southern Rhone.Maybe also since they do not add Grenache they seem more acidic..less"bon bon" as they say here. Anyway Friday Morning we were headed to our New home for the next many weeks and were keen to get there as I spoke in the earlier blog. The house is really great! Spacious, well equipped and just a block or two from the main Place in L'Isle Sur La Sorgue...it is on many levels...the stairs are those circular type and somewhat narrow...the main floor is a sitting area and a bedroom... Then up the stairs half a turn to a bathroom.. Up a larger turn and you are at the kitchen and living room... Big window off the living room looks out on to the narrow street and one of the many canals that criss cross the town... To join up with the main Sorgue River which almost rings the town. Right in front of our house is a huge paddle wheel...always moving.. There are about 12 of them in all.. Continuing up the stairs you come to our bedroom and bath...but there is a few more stairs and voila a roof top patio...still a little chilly for that yet! So Saturday AM we were surprised to look out and see the street filled with fishermen..looking like they walked out of an Orvis catalogue...the French really do like to wear the "gear"...some were fishing flies but most were fishing minnows... But they were everywhere...fishing the little canals...which are very clean looking and also the bigger river around the town... But we never saw anyone with a fish...! We explored the town more on Saturday morning getting our bread and checking out the little charcuteries and epicieries...when lo and behold we came across a small wine bar Le 17 Place aux Vins and decided to .check out the Cave and before we knew it we were tasting wines and enjoying the repartee..if that is the word of the owner..young fellow named Madian.. We will go back there....and I will tell you more about this great little spot.. But this is enough...the next blog will be about a wine Fetes in Chateauneuf du Pape we went to today...yikes an abundance of riches!